FIREARM FINISHES

    Steel Blueing:  There are basically four types of blueing, though they can be characterized in several different ways.  There are  purely chemical methods and there are hot and cold processes.  These two are combined in different ways and produce different results.  There are many things that will affect the final color of the metal including, the type, hardness, amount of surface polishing, and even the age of the steel.  I can perform any of these finishes for you.

Steel Blueing

• 1. Cold Blueing:  This is a cold purely chemical process.  Chemicals are applied directly to the metal and after a period of time the chemicals combine with the surface of the metal to give a blue to black color depending on how many applications are made.  This is the simplest process and provides no protection for the metal.  It is purely cosmetic and most often is used to touch up scratches on blued items.
• 2. Simple Hot Blueing:  This is the next step up from Cold Blueing.  Like Cold Blueing it is a chemical process, however, because heat is applied to the metal before the chemicals are applied the blueing penetrates into the metal a bit.  This results in a deeper color than Cold Blueing and because it penetrates the metal it is more durable.  However, like Cold Blueing, it provides little protection from rust.
• 3. Hot Blueing:  Again, this is a chemical process, but unlike Simple Hot Blueing where the metal is usually heated with a torch, the metal is placed into a very hot bath of caustic chemicals where it remains for a specified period of time before being removed and thoroughly washed with water, dried, and then oiled.  This process colors the metal relatively deeply, more deeply, thoroughly, and uniformly than Simple Hot Blueing.  However, it too provides practically no protection against rust.  Anyone who has been hunting in the rain or snow and didn’t dry and then oil their firearm knows how easily their firearm will rust!  Most commercial firearms are hot blued and this is the finish you are most likely familiar.
• 4. Traditional Rust Blueing:  Of all the blueing processes this is the only one that provides any rust protection.  It too is a chemical process, though it uses heat I’m a far more limited way.  This process has one huge disadvantage in that it takes as much as two weeks to complete the process as there are many steps.  This is the oldest and best blueing process and provides the deepest, richest luster and color of any blueing process.

Then there are other coloring processes available:

For steel:

• 1. Color-Case Hardening - This is a chemical process that involves heating the metal and alternately applying chemicals and results in a mottled color.  Typically this process is reserved for more expensive guns, particularly shotgun receivers and trigger and sometimes on handgun receivers and on triggers.  The colors ranges from blues to, predominantly brown.  It provides no rust protection but does look great.
• 2. Browning:  The process is the same as Simple Hot Blueing and the level or protection is the same - none.  It is an older process than blueing and was used before blueing was discovered.
• 3. Nickel Plating:  Nickel is electrically bound to the surface of the metal, coating it with nickel which doesn’t rust.  However, the finish is not very hard, and if scratched it reveals the steel underneath which can then rust.  While nickel plating is a beautiful finish that provides excellent protection, it does require the owner to keep surfaces clean or they may tarnish, developing “spots.”
• 4. Cerakote:    This is akin to an epoxy that can be colored as desired, and then spray painted onto a surface.  The finish is typically only .0005 thousandths of an inch thick - very thin so it can even be used on working parts without changing the dimensions of the parts.  That and its excellent protective qualities, high resistance to scratching, and speed of application make this a prime choice for firearms.  Drawbacks are that it requires special spray equipment to apply, if a mistake is made the entire item must be completely stripped and redone, and the Cerakote is relatively expensive.
• 5. Parkerizing:    This is the finish most military arms carry.  It is a hot chemical process that leaves a finish that varies from a light grey to a black color and anywhere in between.  The military uses it because of four concerns.  First is cost - it is less expensive than blueing from a chemical cost.  Second, it is quicker than some blueing processes to perform.  Third, and most important, is that it deeply etches the steel.  While that might sound bad it is actually awesome.  Other than Cerakote, this is the best finish regarding protecting the surface from rust, which is the fourth reason.  The etching leaves microscopic pores in the surface which collect and hold microscopic drops of oil - protecting the entire surface.  It is better than Cerakote because it is harder and imbedded into the surface, strongly resisting rust, wear, and even scratches.  This is the best coating system besides Traditional Rust Blueing which also etches the steel surface.
• 6. In-the-White:   The steel is either polished or dulled using bead blasting until the desired finish is achieved.  The steel is then left as is without chemical coloring and the steel is then kept coated with oil.  Muskets and early rifles were generally browned or left In-the-White.

For Aluminum and Brass,

• 1. These can either be Cerakoted or chemically made black, typically to match other steel parts on the firearm.